Larnaca 2025

I have lived in Israel for over 30 years and have nearly always flown into Manchester when visiting the UK. When Hamas declared war on Israel on 7th October 2023 many airlines immediately halted flights to and from Israel, and subsequently the flight to Manchester has not been reinstated. For months I looked for a creative solution how to get to Hull, in the north of England. When we recently visited the UK we flew via Cyprus and, on the way home, enjoyed a few lovely days in Larnaca. I am not sure that this is a route I will repeat, but we had a good time in Larnaca and, as usual, saw some interesting things.

Larnaca is a coastal city on the southern coast of Cyprus known for its rich history, beaches, dining and shopping. It sits on the site of ancient Kition, founded in the 13th century BCE, and is home to historic sites like the Church of Saint Lazarus, and the Finikoudes palm-lined promenade. The name "Finikoudes" means "small palm trees" and refers to the line of palm trees planted along the promenade in 1922.

The first morning of our stay saw us visiting the Medieval Castle of Larnaka. Located at the end of the Foinikoudes promenade, the Medieval Castle of Larnaka (also referred to as Larnaka Fort) is believed to have been originally built during the Middle Ages, and took its present form during Ottoman rule. The structure dates back to the reign of Lusignan King James I (1382–1398 AD), who commissioned it to protect the town's harbour. After the end of the Ottoman era in Cyprus, the British converted the fort into a prison and it was used during the first years of their rule. The western chamber of the ground floor in the east was used for the execution of prisoners. The gallows - which must have been constructed in the room - were in use until 1948.
Today, the fort houses Larnaca's small Medieval Museum, which features a modest collection of weaponry and a selection of fascinating black-and-white photographs showcasing the local area.

The Church of Agios Lazaros is located in its own square in Larnaca's town centre. Built by Byzantine Emperor Leo VI in the 9th century, the church lies over the believed tomb of Saint Lazaros, a figure from the New Testament said to have been resurrected by Jesus and then fled to Cyprus where he was ordained as Bishop of Kition. The saint is so revered that a procession is held in his honour eight days before Easter. During the procession, the icon of Saint Lazarus is carried through the streets of Larnaka.

Used as a mosque during the Ottoman occupation of Cyprus, the three domes and original bell tower of the church were destroyed in the first years of their rule, but the gold-covered iconostasis, below, has survived today and is a superb example of baroque woodcarving.

I was keen to visit the Larnaca Salt Lake to see the flamingos and other migratory birds who use it as a stopover during the migration seasons between Africa and Europe. They spend the winter months there feeding off populations of brine shrimp. However, in the summer the water evaporates, leaving a crust of salt and a haze of grey dust, so there was no water and certainly no flamingo to be seen!

Located southwest of Larnaka, the Salt Lake - known locally as Alyki - is one of four lakes in the area, three of which are interconnected. Together with Lake Orphani, Lake Soros and Airport Lake, they cover a combined area of 2.2 km².

According to legend, the lake's saltiness stems from St Lazarus' request to an old woman for food and drink. She refused, claiming her vines had dried up, to which Lazarus replied "may your vines be dry and be a salt lake forever more." A more scientific explanation is that the salt water penetrates the porous rock between the lake and the sea, making the water very salty.
Salt harvested from this lake used to be one of the island's major exports, being collected with donkeys, carried to the edge of the lake, and piled up into huge pyramidal heaps. With rising labour costs harvesting dwindled to a negligible amount and stopped altogether in 1986.

Our hotel was located right next to Europe Square, a central hub featuring some of the city's earliest 19th century British colonial architecture. The square is home to the 'Seagulls in Flight' fountain designed by Greek sculptor Theodoros Papayiannis in 1996, above, the Municipal Art Gallery, and the Larnaca Historic Archives. The buildings behind the fountain were originally port customs warehouses built in 1881 during the British colonial period.
I was delighted to be able to pop out after breakfast to spend some time at the Municipal Art Gallery. The gallery showcases contemporary artworks by Cypriot and international artists and, at the time of our visit, was hosting of the Larnaca Biennale, the biggest and most popular international arts and culture event in Cyprus. I enjoyed the wide array of artistic mediums, including painting, sculpture, video art, and installations.

The archaeological site of Kition was a short walk from our hotel. The site is one of the first that the Cyprus Department of Antiquities excavated, after the island gained its independence from British Rule in the early 1960's, and frankly it looked like it has not been touched since then! Nevertheless, it was interesting to see the ruins of part of the ancient city-kingdom of Kition (four other areas have also been excavated). The remains consist of the northern part of the ancient town and part of the defensive wall dating from the 13th century BC. Habitation continued up to the Hellenistic period, although few Hellenistic or Roman artifacts have been found at Kition, making the site unusual and especially important. It also makes it politically delicate, as Greek Cypriots tend to be less enthusiastic about ruins of Asiatic cultural origins.

The artefacts from the excavations of the area are kept in the Archaeological Museum of Larnaka District, which was our next stop.

The Archaeological Museum of Larnaka District was newly renovated in 2022 and houses a collection of archaeological finds from the whole district of Larnaka, including the ancient city-kingdom of Kition, and the main Neolithic settlements of Choirokoitia and Tenta at Kalavasos.
The museum contents are housed in two wings - the right hand one traces a chronological course from 8000 BC until the 12th century BC. The other wing covers the historical period forward to the Roman era in the 1st millennium BC. Faience (tin-glazed pottery), ivory and alabaster pieces showcase Cyprus' commercial and international ties with different countries during antiquity.

Despite its modest size, the museum provided clear and informative explanations for every exhibit. It was genuinely fascinating and a lovely way to wrap up our brief visit to Larnaca.

* This post has been shared on Mosaic Monday