Flamingo Watching in Eilat’s Salt Pools

Photo credit: Eilat Birding Center - IBRCE

Eilat, Israel's southernmost city, is located in a central location along the migration route from Africa towards Europe and Asia. During the migratory seasons, autumn and spring, you can enjoy the amazing experience of watching hundreds of thousands of pink flamingos and other birds in their natural environment. We took some time during our stay in Eilat to visit the salt pools, just a few minutes drive north of the city, where Greater Flamingo, waders, raptors and many other birds come to "refuel".  About one million birds pass through the region during the migratory seasons.

Eilat's salt pools are an industrial site for the production of salt for both the domestic and international market. The Salt of the Earth salt plant uses the pools, which cover a total area of around 180 hectares (440 acres), to extract Red Sea salt from the sea water by evaporation. An experimental solar evaporation salt production plant was already operating in Eilat between the years 1954-1959 and the current plant was set up in 1976. Over the years, the plant's manufacturing processes became more sophisticated, doubling and even tripling the plant's production and processing output. During the early years, when the pools operated only with water sourced directly from the sea, annual production reached about 150,000 tons. Salt harvest progressed from collection by tractors and carts to laser-guided equipment used today that preserves salt purity and prevents damage to pool infrastructure. Over time, new processing and drying equipment was added, improving the salt quality to superior levels.

The salt pools serve as a very special haven for flamingos since they are loaded with algae as a result of the evaporation. The flamingos feed on the algae, which are rich in beta-carotene, which causes the pink colouration in the flamingos' wings.

The first few years after the salt company built the ponds, only 10s of flamingoes came in the autumn and left in the spring. In the mid-1990s a change was observed. Adults that wintered in Eilat between September and March brought their young and after the adults left for the subsequent breeding season in March, the young, which can be identified by their black and white plumage, stayed back for the summer.

There are several observation posts overlooking the salt pools and the flamingos. The one we visited, after a short bumpy ride off-road, allowed us wonderful views of the jagged peaks of the Edom mountains in Jordan and of Israel's Mount Amram, which is notable for its dark colour. Opposite us was Jordan's Aqaba International Airport, above. A peace agreement in 1996 between Israel and Jordan included arrangements for Israel to use the runways and for passengers to proceed from their aircraft directly into Israeli territory.

The salt pools are constantly under threat. In 2020 a plan to build a visitor centre for marine and ancient agriculture with a large campsite for 750 people, on the shores of the pools, was put forward for approval. Because the pools are an industrial site for the production of salt and not a nature reserve, protecting the birds and habitat is a constant fight.
In addition, visitors using drones to film flying flamingos and ATVs racing through the habitat in the past has scared the birds away. The flamingoes leave for the day to a protected but foodless site and only come back to feed at the pools when the crowds leave. Signs now enforce against the disturbance of the birds and on the day we visited it was very quiet.

Photo credit: Tiuli

Near to the pools is the ancient site of Evrona, which we will check out on a future visit. Evrona is mentioned in the Bible as one of the stations that the Israelites stopped at on their long journey in the wilderness. "They journeyed from Jotbathah (Yotvata) and camped at Abronah (Evrona). They journeyed from Abronah (Evrona) and camped at Ezion-Geber (Eztion-Gaver)." (Numbers 33: 34-35).
Over a thousand years ago, farmers constructed an elaborate underground water system at Evrona and turned it into Israel's savanna. The location was excellent, on the route called Darb el-Haj - Road of the Celebrants. Although it had been used by traders for millennia, after Islam was established, Darb el-Haj became the main pilgrimage trail to Mecca. Thousands of travelers from North Africa and Spain took the route every year, stopping to buy their provisions in Evrona.
The farmers, who were probably Muslims who came from the surrounding Arab countries, dug to reach fresh underground water and transport it to the fields. Every 10 meters, a shaft was dug so that air could circulate. Today you can descend a ladder down a six-meter shaft, crawl about 20 meters through the tunnel, and surface through another shaft. Apparently it's cool down there and a great way to get out of the heat!
Nearby are the "Doum Palms", a group of rare and impressive Egyptian palm trees. This is the most northerly point in the world where this species of palm trees grows. They are more commonly found in Sudan and the tropical regions of Africa and they don't grow any further north than Evrona. Unlike date palms, whose trunks are tall and straight, those of the doum palm (also known as gingerbread trees) split into V-shapes that open to the sky, with tufts of large fan-shaped leaves at the ends of the branches. Their presence here for thousands of years indicates that the weather in the past was far different than it is today.

* This post has been shared on The Hearth and Soul Link Party, Wordless Wednesday (on Tuesday), My Corner of the World and Wild Bird Wednesday.

International Birding and Research Centre Eilat

This post was written a year last December, when we took a short break in Eilat, Israel's southernmost city. With everything going on here in Israel at the moment, we currently have no plans to travel anywhere, but hope that one day soon we will be able to go out and discover new and interesting places in our beautiful country.

Israel's Arava region, the desert valley that extends from the Dead Sea to Eilat, is an important bird migration route between Europe and Africa. Millions of birds pass through the region during the migration seasons. En route many of them stop over in Eilat. In the autumn, on their way to Africa, the birds pause to rest and regain their strength before crossing the foodless and hostile Saharan desert that lies before them; and in spring, on their journey to Europe, they stop to recuperate after their desert adventures. The International Birding and Research Centre Eilat (IBRCE), located at the northern entrance to the city, is the perfect place to observe all these birds.

The IBRCE lies on what was once a salt marsh, before it was turned into an industrial waste site. The area around Eilat was once home to extensive salt marshes where plants provided flowers and fruits to feed the migrating birds. But as the resort city expanded, the salt marshes were replaced by urban sprawl. During the 1970s and '80s developers built shopping malls, hotels, housing and restaurants that used the salt marshes of Eilat as a landfill for all their rubbish. Residents strolling through the city streets would find hundreds of dead birds at their feet. The poor creatures had searched in vain for their natural habitat, trying to find the indigenous plants and the salt marshes that had fed them so wonderfully in the past.

Something had to be done.
In 1993 the ground was leveled, the rubbish dumps were covered up, pools were created and trees that could provide the birds with food were planted. The park is now run by the KKL-JNF (Jewish National Fund), together with the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel, the Nature and Parks Authority, Eilat Municipality and Ben Gurion University, all of whom oversaw the transformation of the rubbish dump into an environmentally friendly venue and bird watching park.

Now the migratory birds can enjoy resting in a tranquil spot that extends over about one tenth of the original area of the salt marsh and which is well provided with food. Israel's national water company Mekorot has also become involved in the project and it supplies water for the lake in the park, which has become a wonderful habitat for a variety of aquatic species. 

The park includes a number of paths flanked by hides that enable visitors to observe the birds without disturbing them. Ponds offer different water conditions and quantities of light and shade. A salt marsh has been recreated to serve warblers, rare species of sparrows and shrikes, while a freshwater lake thickly lined with foliage attracts waterfowl, herons, kingfishers and waders. Salt pans are populated by flamingos and gulls, and reed beds by crakes and reed warblers. The Asian Green Bee-eater is a common visitor. All in all, more than 480 species of birds have been recorded in the Eilat area. Foxes, shrews, hyenas and snakes are all regular visitors too, but you have to go there really late at night or way before dawn to see them.

The IBRCE is also involved in nature conservation work and campaigns throughout the Southern Arava region, making sure the desert skies are clear from hazards and the stop-over sites are safe and welcoming for the birds. Centre staff visit local kibbutzim to explain the importance of birds and encourage them to become more bird-friendly. They also conduct research and monitor migrant birds. During the spring and autumn it is possible to watch bird ringing and see many incredible species up close and in the hand. About 25,000 birds are caught each year in Eilat for monitoring purposes. Using a special ring placed on the bird's leg, they track their migration patterns.

The IBRCE also has a small hospital designed to give immediate care to birds that arrive too exhausted and hungry and need to be injected with fluids and fed manually. Birds that arrive wounded are flown to the safari in Ramat-Gan for treatment.

The park staff organize a variety of activities for the general public and provide guided tours for groups and individuals. Guiding takes place in the mornings but a visit at any time of the year is recommended. I couldn't help but think how much Gadi, a bird-lover, would have enjoyed it.

Tomorrow night the festival of Pesach or Passover, the Jewish Festival of Freedom, begins. It is celebrated to mark the Exodus of the Jews from Egypt. This year it will be less of a celebration and more a marking of the holiday. 133 Israeli hostages are still being held in Gaza and are not free to sit around the Seder table with their loved ones. Celebrating the Festival of Freedom frankly feels impossible.

* This post has been shared on Sundays on Silverado, The Good. The Random. The Fun., Wordless Wednesday (on Tuesday), Wild Bird Wednesday and My Corner of the World.

Hod Hasharon Ecological Park

As I wrote on my previous blog post, Israel is at war and we are living through sad times. I have posted a couple of blogs about the situation but have decided now to share some posts about the beautiful side of the country I live in. A country filled with nature trails and historic ruins, gorgeous birds and flowers. The posts were written a year and a half or even two years ago, before I lost my youngest son. I haven’t felt like sharing them but now think that the time is appropriate to show you another side of Israel, a side that you will not currently see on the news.
This is Israel.

Hod Hasharon Ecological Park is located south of the city of Hod Hasharon, a city in the Central District of Israel. The park is home to a delicate ecosystem based on treated wastewater. You will find a large ecological lake and a flowing tributary of the Hadar Stream, three birdwatching hides, pedestrian paths and cycling trails. The park was inaugurated in 2018 and while it is not complete, it is already a beautiful place to visit. When development is complete, it will cover 1,400 dunams (140 hectares).

The lake, which is the main focus of the park, was planned as an ecological body of water. Underwater sandbanks resembling the natural stream beds of the area have been built on the 2 metre deep lake bed. These create a variety of habitats that sustain an entire ecosystem, from bacteria to algae to fish and amphibians. Birds that nest in burrows, such as the European Bee-eater and the European roller, have dug their nests in the banks and some 150,000 plants of about 30 species typical of the natural vegetation of the area have been have been planted there.

The source of the water for the lake and the park is the Hod Hasharon-Kfar Saba wastewater purification plant. The water receives its final purification in green basins south of the park and, from there, with its quality greatly improved, it is channelled to the lake. The water in the lake is replaced every five days. Pumps draw out the water and send it on to the Hadar Stream and the Yarkon River.

The hill on the west side of the lake is also made of recycled waste. Har Hazevel, or "Garbage Mountain", was a solid waste landfill until the early 1990s. It is still undergoing rehabilitation and is currently covered in mud and sand. An easy climb to the top boasts beautiful views of the park and the surrounding area. The route is already popular with cyclists and hikers.

Behind "Garbage Mountain" is an abandoned stone building, below, which will eventually be restored as the park's visitors centre. The Arab village of Abu Kishk once stood here and this building was a school built by the British in 1925 for the children of Bedouins living in this area. By the mid-1940s it had 108 students, including 9 girls. Today cactuses and almond trees grow nearby.

Hod Hasharon Ecological Park is a municipal park and when we visited there were a lot of people around, especially young kids. We enjoyed a picnic in the park then, after our climb to the top of "Garbage Mountain", the crowds began to die down and it became a lovely place for some birdwatching. However, if you can, I would suggest arriving at sunrise (during those hours, the birds are active, and there will be no people).
From the birdwatching hides I spotted little egret, cormorant, black-crowned night heron and squacco heron on the island in the centre of the lake and along the banks. During the season many migrating birds arrive in the area. The park provides them with a proper place to rest and "refuel" before continuing their journey.

The Hadar Stream was once a short, dry watercourse that channelled sewage between cultivated fields. Only rarely, after heavy rainfall, did water briefly flow through it. Soon after water began flowing through the Hadar Stream in 2014, species of fish appeared there that had adapted to the treated wastewater. Among these are the Eurasian carp and redbelly tilapia. They have been joined, whether as permanent or occasional inhabitants, by various amphibians, reptiles and mammals. You can see Caspian turtles and the Nile Softshell turtle in the lake, as well as Coypu (nutria), the large, semiaquatic rodent which we last saw at the Hula Lake.

Hod Hasharon Ecological Park is always open and you can visit at any time. At night there is artificial light. It is forbidden to start a fire or make barbecue at the park. Swimming and fishing are not allowed and dogs should be on a lead. Entrance is free.

I highly recommend a visit.

* This post has been shared on The Good. The Random. The Fun. and Wordless Wednesday (on Tuesday).