Hurvat Nekes

The war continues, and for the past month we have stayed mostly at home, or very close to it. Of course, daily life still goes on - we need to eat - and with Passover, the Festival of Unleavened Bread, beginning this week, there is even more food preparation than usual.
So we venture out from time to time, carefully planning each trip to the supermarket. We try to go shortly after a missile attack, reassured by the knowledge that there is a safe room at our destination. The sirens still sound, day and night. We are all exhausted, but for the most part, safe.
This blog post was written before the war began. I hope the day will come soon when we can once again visit Hurvat Nekes in peace.

Hurvat Nekes (חורבת נכס) is a beautiful site on the western outskirts of the city of Modi'in. ​Archaeological finds from many periods - from prehistoric times to the present day - have been discovered there, together with the standing remains of buildings from the former Arab village of al-Kunayyisa.

The name Hurvat Nekes translates as "the ruins of Nekes." Hurvat means "ruin" or "ruined site" in Hebrew ("khirba" in Arabic) and refers to a ruined site, abandoned village, or ancient archaeological mound, often containing remnants of buildings, cisterns, and walls. Hurvat is commonly used for smaller sites (villages, farms, outposts). Larger, mound-shaped sites are often called "tel" (תל) in Hebrew.

Hurvot, or "khirab", are common sites in the Eastern Mediterranean, often dating to the Byzantine or Roman period. They serve as crucial archaeological, agricultural, or residential markers.

Hurvat Nekes is made up of three low hills and the valleys separating them. From the western hill there are wide views toward the Shfela (lowlands) and the ruins of al-Kunayyisa and its orchards.​ Al-Kunayyisa was a former Arab village that was abandoned on 10th July 1948 during the War of Independence. The village lay less than 2 km to the northeast of the Ramle-Jerusalem highway, and was linked to it - and to neighbouring villages as well - by dirt paths.

Al-Kunayyisa, whose name likely refers to a small church or shrine (derived from the Arabic root kanisa, meaning "church"), was resettled in the early 20th century atop an earlier settlement, the remains of which include rough stone walls, arched doors and building foundations. Within the remains of the settlement, you can see the main alley, side alleys, residential buildings, courtyards and service buildings adjacent to them, including several tabuns and a granary. One of the buildings was probably used as a mosque, and a prayer niche (the mihrab) facing south can be seen.

Agriculture was the backbone of the villagers' economy, focusing mainly on the cultivation of grain. The villagers also cultivated citrus and olives in the northern and southern parts of the land, which they irrigated from nearby wells. Today, fig, almond, olive, carob, and pomegranate trees and cactuses grow among the buildings. The lands in the vicinity are cultivated by a nearby kibbutz.

A wealth of archaeological remains at Hurvat Nekes reflects continuous human activity in the area. As well as the remains of the village of Al-Kunayyisa, prehistoric flint tools, rock-cut water reservoirs and cisterns, stone cups, burial mounds, wine and olive presses, agricultural terraces and quarries have be found there. The finds represent several periods, including the Iron Age, the Roman period, the Byzantine period, the Mamluk period, and more.

The hills and slopes of Hurvat Nekes are dotted with low trees and shrubs, including buckthorn, Christ's thorn, and other native shrubs. At the time of our visit, on a beautiful sunny weekend at the end of January, almond trees were blossoming and the area was lit up with red anemones, or in Hebrew, "calaniot". The Hebrew name "calanit" comes from "kalanit" meaning "little bride", referring to the flower's delicate shape. It is Israel's national flower.

Today, the site of Hurvat Nekes functions as an open park that combines nature, history, mountain biking and hiking trails. A path crossing the centre of Hurvat Nekes forms part of the Israel Trail, Israel's national long-distance hiking route. Additional local marked trails (including green/yellow markings) connect the hills and valleys, though numerous pits and caves are scattered throughout the area, requiring hikers to proceed with caution. Cattle also graze in the area, and the slopes are home to a rich variety of wildlife, including yellow scorpions, beetles, centipedes, and other species.

From the western hill at Hurvat Nekes, the Modi'in-Jerusalem railway stretches out in the distance. At the top of the hill, we came across this charming little bench, below. The Hebrew sign reads: "In honour of the fighters. For everyone who sometimes needs a little peace and quiet."

Though I may not be a fighter in the traditional sense, that sentiment truly resonated with me. We enjoyed a well-earned rest, taking in the fabulous view.

* This post has been shared on Mosaic Monday, Busy Monday, Monday Morning Blog Club, Through My Lens